Shooting in an Arena

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Sandy, Jan 7, 2012.

  1. Sandy

    Sandy Guest

    I have a Nikon 5100 with a kit lens - 18-55. I was told to getter
    better shots in an arena to set the ISO to 3200, shutter speed 1/200.
    When I reviewed the pic in IPHOTO it also indicated the EV was -1.3
    and F5.6. I tried to lower the F stop but could not get the camera to
    go any lower. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Sandy, Jan 7, 2012
    1. Advertisements

  2. Sandy

    PeterN Guest

    At 55mm the maximum aperture on that lens is f5.6. You might want to
    increase the ISO.

    PeterN, Jan 7, 2012
    1. Advertisements

  3. At 55mm the kit lens probably maxes out at f/5.6, doesn't it? That'd be
    why you couldn't open up any further.

    Some situations just don't respond well to low-end equipment. They
    frequently involve somewhat distant fast action in dim light.

    Starting from the top, there are two situational constraints on shutter
    speed: camera movement and subject movement. Technology like a tripod
    and VR helps a lot to reduce blur from camera movement. Subject
    movement is rather harder; learning to time your shots to when the
    subject is moving less fast can help, as can learning to pan with the
    motion (so the subject is sharp but the background is blurred, at a
    lower shutter speed).

    After that, you need more light or higher ISO. You can get more light
    by using a faster lens (which in extreme cases can get *extremely*
    expensive; price a 400mm f/2.8!). You can get a higher ISO by turning
    up the ISO. You can get a higher ISO without so much visual noise by
    buying a camera body with a better sensor (like a D4, or even just a
    D700); still fairly expensive. In some circumstances (probably not in
    an arena) you can add additional continuous light, or use flash. You
    might need multiple flash units, a radio system to trigger them all at
    once, and rigging gear to put them up; but more likely it's just not
    allowed where you're shooting.

    Plugins like Noise Ninja can cut back somewhat the objectionable aspects
    of the noise from high ISO, and it's fairly cheap (compared to a D4 or a
    400/2.8, it's almost free ;-) ).

    I'd start by running the ISO up to the top and see what you can do.
    Don't pixel peep! Looking at the pixels 1:1 is useful in testing
    scenarios and when making critical comparisons between very similar
    things, but for practical pictures, intended to be looked at, it often
    shows you flaws that have little impact on an 8x10 print or a web
    image. Then practice timing your shots, and if there's opportunity for
    panning work on that.
    David Dyer-Bennet, Jan 8, 2012
  4. That model goes up to ISO 6400 as standard and there are two expansion
    settings (Hi 1 and Hi 2) that go up to 25,600.
    Garry Douglas, Jan 8, 2012
  5. Sandy

    Pete A Guest

    Santa gets in a muddle over photographic gear: his recent excuse was "I
    couldn't find the 2.8 mm f/400 you asked me for."

    The AF-S 35 mm f/1.8G DX or 50 mm f/1.8G FX are worth considering -
    good performers and not very expensive. Obviously no zoom, but the
    D5100 is good enough to tolerate a fair amount of cropping in post
    processing at the lower ISOs either lens would give.
    Pete A, Jan 8, 2012
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.