Shutter button technique

Discussion in 'Digital Cameras' started by default, Dec 8, 2005.

  1. default

    default Guest

    I am trying not to shake the camera when pressing the shutter but with the
    forward placement of the shutter on the Canon Rebel XT (350D), there is a
    tendency to slightly tilt the camera forward or cause a small vibration.
    This is a problem when the camera is on the tripod.

    Using the self-timer with a tripod works, but 10 seconds is a long time to
    wait. I have ordered a remote control that would also help for tripod
    shots. Using the computer to trigger the camera via the USB port completely
    eliminates any shake, but requires a computer within 15 feet.

    I would like to be able to manually press the shutter without moving the
    camera significantly when it is on the tripod. Is there a technique to
    doing this effectively? I can do ok with hand holding the camera, but on
    the tripod, I often wiggle the camera inadvertently.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #1
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  2. default

    Mark² Guest

    Buy a sturdier tripod that more securely holds the camera. -It shouldn't be
    that easy to disturb on a sturdy tripod.
    ....or...
    Instead of only pushing down on the shutter release...hold onto the camera
    grip, and then press as you would were it in your hand. -If you're only
    pressing on the button, you are going to create more movement than if you
    would grab the grip.
     
    Mark², Dec 8, 2005
    #2
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  3. default

    Sheldon Guest

    Some people have a tendency to jerk the camera when they press the button.
    Gently squeeze the button in a smooth movement when you take a photo. I
    guess it's like when they tell you to slowly "squeeze" the trigger when you
    shoot a gun.
     
    Sheldon, Dec 8, 2005
    #3
  4. default

    Darrell Guest

    The RS-60E3 ($24.99) remote release will work well. Mind you can make a
    remote release with a couple bucks of Radio Shack parts ;)
     
    Darrell, Dec 8, 2005
    #4
  5. default

    sdavies6 Guest

    You should cradle the camera in your left hand; that hand providing most of
    the support. Do not use the right hand for as much support. Use the grip
    to gently hold the camera steady and push the shutter. The left hand still
    holding steady from above. Most amateurs hardly use the left hand at all.
    If you are using the right hand for most of the support and at the same time
    pressing the shutter, you are in effect working against yourself.

    Also, be aware that this is a common problem; hence the constant talk of
    faster lenses. Faster speed is less shake. When possible, specifically
    when using longer lenses, try to brace your whole body and arms against a
    brace; tree, building, etc. A good photographer has no loss of ego when
    using something to brace himself and the camera.
     
    sdavies6, Dec 8, 2005
    #5
  6. default

    Paul Mitchum Guest

    Two things come to mind:

    1) Squeeze, don't press. Drape your finger across the button and just
    squeeze it, rather than trying to press with the end of your finger.

    2) Follow through. The shutter might be open longer than you'd think it
    would be, so don't quit squeezing until you're sure the shutter is
    closed. The tendency is to squeeze and then imagine the exposure is
    done, so you let up off the button, but sometimes the shutter is still
    open. The act of letting up can move the camera.

    What everyone else said about bracing and fast shutter speed applies,
    too. You might consider a monopod, as well.

    Some SLRs used to have a mirror lock-up function, where you could lock
    the mirror in place so the momentum of having it slap around inside the
    camera wouldn't jiggle the camera. Most new cameras don't have this, but
    some have a mirror delay. The idea being that the camera can flap the
    mirror up, wait a few seconds, and then take the exposure. See if your
    camera has this feature... I doubt it does, but I don't really know.
     
    Paul Mitchum, Dec 8, 2005
    #6
  7. default

    default Guest

    The wired remotes are fairly pricy here, but I ordered the RC-1 wireless
    remote. It should be here by the end of the week hopefully. Does the
    RS-60E3 allow the half press?
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #7
  8. default

    default Guest

    Clearly I will need to practice not disturbing the camera more. If it is a
    long exposure, I will have to trigger it remotely I think because if I hold
    the camera while it is on the tripd, then letting go moves it again.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #8
  9. default

    default Guest

    Thanks.

    My tripod is a bit cheap. That could be part of the problem. If I am
    holding the grip, then my body movements affect the camera some and if I let
    go, I induce a vibration also. I think I will have to practice squeezing
    the shutter release but not putting a net force on the camera body.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #9
  10. default

    Matt Ion Guest

    default wrote:

    Yup... that's what the cable release is designed for.


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    Matt Ion, Dec 8, 2005
    #10
  11. default

    default Guest

    Thank you for youre advice. I do better when I am leaning against something
    solid or even with the camera rested on something. Remote release gets
    perfectly still pictures, but it isn't always practical. I was mostly
    having trouble with tripod photos. I was expecting them to turn out sharp
    almost every time, but so far I am getting a similiar ratio of good to bad
    pics compared to hand holding the camera. Possibly worse since the tripod
    shots are usually longer exposures and for hand holding I try to follow the
    1/f rule.

    Larger apertures, higher ISO's, and shorter focal lengths, allow faster
    shutter speeds and the shake is less noticable, but there are trade-offs
    there as well. I suspect the smaller image sensor size compared to 35mm
    film is partly responible also since the image gets blown up larger by 1.6x
    and the faults with it.

    Previous film cameras (I didn't have a digital before this), had the shutter
    release more on the top and nearly in the same plane as the film. It seemed
    to be less difficult this way. Ergonomically I love how the Rebel XT feels
    though.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #11
  12. default

    default Guest

    This might be it. For a long exposure (like several seconds or more), I was
    releasing the button before the exposure was finished thinking that holding
    it down might cause me to move the camera more. I will try holding it until
    the shutter has closed again.
    It does have a mirror lockup. If it is enabled, then pressing the shutter
    flips the mirror up, and then pressing it again will release the shutter. I
    think my problem right now is me moving the camera body, not so much from
    the mirror causing little vibrations. My best results have been from using
    the self-timer and the USB to computer cord to remotely release the shutter,
    but I have to get better at doing it manually too.

    Thanks for your advice.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #12
  13. default

    223rem Guest

    It's not all your fault, the Rebel is a very light camera.
     
    223rem, Dec 8, 2005
    #13
  14. default

    Mark² Guest

    This last statement is why I suggest trying it with your hand on the grip.
    This way, your task becomes counter-acting the downward pressure on the
    button by the hold on the camera.
    Again...a strurdy tirpod should work wonders...though nothing will beat the
    simple and inexpensive remote shutter release and the sturdy tripod combo.
     
    Mark², Dec 8, 2005
    #14
  15. Can you not set the self-timer delay to 2 seconds? (I can on my S2 IS and
    A95)
     
    Moro Grubb of Little Delving, Dec 8, 2005
    #15
  16. default

    default Guest

    Nope, the Rebel XT only has 10 seconds. Meanwhile it is beeping and
    flashing it's red-eye reduction lamp. You can just feel the battery
    draining too.

    The RC-1 remote has two second and instant modes though which is the one I
    ordered.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #16
  17. default

    default Guest

    I am wondering now if I should have ordered the RS60-E3 cable release
    instead of the RC-1 remote however. I just realized that I will have to
    reach around the camera with the remote since the sensor is in the front of
    the camera while I am trying to look through the eyepiece. The RS60-E3 is
    quite a bit more expensive though and I saw reports on Amazon that the
    switch in it wears out quickly while the RC-1 gets good reviews.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #17
  18. default

    default Guest

    Good point. I think I will be happy with the RC-1. I thought that since
    the Rebel XT didn't have an eyepiece shutter, that I either had to keep
    close to it to keep too much light from entering or using the eyepiece cover
    but wouldn't the flipped up mirror prevent the light from entering anyway?
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #18
  19. default

    Alex Guest

    You can make your own wired one for about £3 anyway. No where near as plush
    as the Canon one, but it works fine for me on my 350D. And you can make the
    cord longer.

    http://www.chantalcurrid.com/remoteControl.htm

    That said, as someone else mentioned the 350D is a smaller camera and I've
    found this a real problem with a slower lens.

    Alex
     
    Alex, Dec 8, 2005
    #19
  20. default

    default Guest

    I might just do this. Thank you for the idea.
     
    default, Dec 8, 2005
    #20
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