Silver Gelatin

Discussion in 'Darkroom Developing and Printing' started by Matt Clara, May 24, 2005.

  1. Matt Clara

    Matt Clara Guest

    So, having combed the archives for all of three minutes, I've come to the
    realization that I'm _already_ making silver gelatin prints with Ilford
    papers. I am so cool, and I didn't even know it ;-) It looks like all the
    rage these days is to buy _liquid_ silver gelatin and paint it onto other
    substrates, such as homemade paper, ceramics, or whatever won't fall apart
    or be altered by the chemicals at hand, and make prints on those surfaces.

    Where do you buy your liquid silver gelatin? I've found this page: $56 seems a tad pricey, but
    then, I don't really know.

    Matt Clara, May 24, 2005
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  2. Tout ce qui n' est point prose est vers,
    et tout ce qui n' est point vers est prose.

    Nicholas O. Lindan, May 24, 2005
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  3. Matt Clara

    Matt Clara Guest

    Well, at least someone's having fun here. BTW, I'd appreciate it if you'd
    keep the emoticon when you snip my post leaving only the part I'm kidding
    about. Thanks.
    Matt Clara, May 24, 2005
  4. Matt Clara

    John Guest

    Goes well with Louis XIV ;>))

    JD -
    John, May 24, 2005
  5. 7,000 years of writing and no need of 'emoticons', and now?
    Jonathan Swift wept.
    Nicholas O. Lindan, May 24, 2005
  6. or Louis XV:

    "Apres moi, le digitale"
    Nicholas O. Lindan, May 24, 2005
  7. Matt Clara

    Matt Clara Guest

    Do you have to work hard at being an ass, or does it come naturally?
    Matt Clara, May 24, 2005
  8. Silver-gelatin seems to be a description invented by
    gallery owners to distinguish "plain vanila" prints from
    those made by more exotic methods like Platinum or Carbon.
    Being a gallery term its slightly high-flown.
    I think all the liquid emulsion sold is made by Kentmere
    in England. Kentmere is a very old company who make some
    very good papers and specialty products.
    There are several ways of printing on special materials.
    One, of course, is the use of a coatable emulsion but one
    can also print using photolithography or by using silk
    screen using a gelatin or other colloid to make the mask.
    There are also methods of coating something like Carbon
    tissue material with an appropriate pigment onto a ceramic
    and firing it. The pigment then becomes imbedded in the
    glaze while the colloid is burned away. I no longer remember
    the name of this method.
    Richard Knoppow, May 24, 2005
  9. Matt Clara

    Peter Chant Guest

    Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:

    Whats the hieroglyph for 'up yours'...

    Peter Chant, May 25, 2005
  10. Matt Clara

    Peter Chant Guest

    Richard Knoppow wrote:

    On the first read through I read that as 'plutonium'!

    Probally safest to give those prints a miss.
    Peter Chant, May 25, 2005
  11. Matt Clara

    Travis Porco Guest

    Though as you and many others know, <a href="">uranium</a> was actually used in alternative processes, strange
    as it may seem today.
    Travis Porco, May 25, 2005
  12. Matt Clara

    John Guest

    Actually I think it was XIII. About $100 per quaff when I worked at Lafayette but
    of course I get the "employee discount" ;>))

    JD -
    John, May 25, 2005
  13. Now _that's_ archival.

    I remember seeing a photograph made on a white porcelain
    tile. The subject was a bathroom fixture.
    Nicholas O. Lindan, May 25, 2005
  14. Nicholas O. Lindan, May 25, 2005
  15. Dating to 1890, still used for photographs on gravestones:
    Nicholas O. Lindan, May 25, 2005
  16. No Plutonium but there is a Uranium toner, once fairly
    popular. Uranium can also be used as a mordant for dye
    A typical Uranium toner is Kodak T-9:

    Kodak T-9 Uranium Toner for Transparencies and Motion
    Picture Prints.

    Uranium (Uranyl) Nitrate 2.5 grams
    Potassium Oxalate 2.5 grams
    Potassium ferricyanide 1.0 gram
    Ammonium alum 6.0 grams
    Hydrochloric acid, 10% solution 5.0 ml
    Water to make 1.0 liter

    Dissolve chemicals in order given. The solution should be
    perfectly clear and light yellow in color.
    It is light sensitive and should be stored in the dark.
    The maximum effect is produced in about 10 minutes the tone
    passing throught brown to red in this time.
    There is likely a variation of this for prints but I was
    unable to find one.

    I don't know for certain about the permanence of Uranium
    toned film or prints but, in general toners of this type,
    such as Iron Blue toner or Copper toner, that use a
    ferricyanide bleach to replace the image silver with
    another metal, produce images which are less permenent than
    the original Silver image. They are not protectants as is
    sulfide or Selenium toner
    For all I know there may indeed be a way of toning with
    Richard Knoppow, May 25, 2005
  17. Matt Clara

    John Guest

    John, May 25, 2005
  18. Matt Clara

    Matt Clara Guest

    Thanks Richard,
    Is this stuff applied in full darkness or is red safety light good to go?
    Matt Clara, May 25, 2005
  19. Matt Clara

    Peter Chant Guest

    The process in the first link gives the impression that it diffuses priter
    ink into the glaze. The second is just moulding acrylic over the top of a
    photo. I wonder how they fair with age?
    Peter Chant, May 25, 2005
  20. See for complete information.
    There are on-line instructions. Rockland makes or sells two
    types of emulsion, a plain one and a VC one. The plain one
    specifies an "amber" safelight (probably a Wratten OC) the
    VC a red safelight. The red light will be safe for both.
    These are both very slow emulsions. Surface prep and subbing
    are important. Some people have had problems with the
    emulsion coming off during development. I suspect Rockland
    can be helpful with specific applications.
    Richard Knoppow, May 25, 2005
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