solarizing lith film

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Luis Ortega, Feb 9, 2006.

  1. Luis Ortega

    Luis Ortega Guest

    I am trying to solarize some type 3 kodak lith film sheets, using their own
    Kodalith A & B developer and some BW negatives. I am projecting 35mm negs
    onto 8 x 10 lith sheets in hopes that getting a good solarization effect on
    film will let me then print multiple copies, compared to solarizing prints.
    I have some experience with solarizing BW prints but I'm not getting
    anywhere with the lith film.

    Can anyone please advise me on how to solarize lith film or point me to a
    source that might answer my question?

    Thanks a lot.
     
    Luis Ortega, Feb 9, 2006
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. Luis Ortega

    Pat Guest

    Wow, I've been out of the darkroom so long ....

    As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only
    black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize.

    I did a quite search and found this article
    http://photography.about.com/library/weekly/aa091399c.htm
    It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will
    help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put
    is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see
    someone staying with traditional methods.

    Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.
     
    Pat, Feb 10, 2006
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. Luis Ortega

    Luis Ortega Guest

    Thanks, I've been reading about it and it seems that you need to use a
    different
    developer than lith developer to produce some sort of tonal range on the
    film that can get solarized.
     
    Luis Ortega, Feb 10, 2006
    #3
  4. Luis Ortega

    Mark Dunn Guest

    You need to use a continuous tone developer. It's quite possible; I used to
    make copy transparencies on Kodalith 2556 and IIRC used dilute print dev. Of
    course, printing from negs, you'll then have solarised positives which
    you'll need to contact print again to get a neg for printing. That's why you
    might want to try solarising prints, copying them, then printing from the
    new neg. To get a solarised neg direct you need to print on direct positive
    film. Or you could reversal process the lith film. Good luck, and well done
    for helping. keep wet photography alive
     
    Mark Dunn, Feb 10, 2006
    #4
  5. Luis Ortega

    Dankwart Guest

    I used to simply solarize a print. I exposed the print on a higher-contrast
    paper. Then I started to develop it in a water-diluted developer (about 1:5)
    until the first blacks came out. Then I solarized the print while in the
    diluted developer with a 15 W bulb and completed the development normally.
    I never found the final print contrasty enough. Therefore I re-photographed
    the print, creating a new negative from which I could print (high contrast)
    as much as I wanted..
    Dankwart

    --

    |***************************************************************|
    | Note my new email address: !
    !
    !
    ! Visit my Web Site http://dankwart.tripod.com |
    !
    |
    ****************************************************************.
     
    Dankwart, Feb 11, 2006
    #5
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.