This NG at its best (follow up to "Kodak B&W C-41 process?")

Discussion in 'Kodak' started by Alan Browne, Apr 15, 2004.

  1. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest

    In another thread "Kodak B&W C-41 process?" the notion of home
    developing came up. As a consequence, as I was over at the photo store
    picking up some slides.

    1- I discussed home dev of B&W, the store owner will sell me her old two
    reel tank, order the chems for me and give me a copy of her recipe book.

    2- One of her employees, a photog student, has an agreement with her to
    do B&W printing at her house.

    3- The owner sold me 15 rolls of expired B&W film (T-max 100 36
    frames/roll) for $1 ea. (and 5 rolls of ISO 400 Elite Chrome... wish I
    had had that before shooting volleyball a couple weeks ago!)

    4- I may try doing reversal on some of these B&W.

    This brings my film inventory up to 57 rolls or over 2000 frames ...
    that's a little over an average *week* to some, but shoud keep me going
    for a few months...

    Cheers,
    Alan.
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 15, 2004
    #1
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  2. Alan Browne

    Nick Zentena Guest

    Fotochem in the Montreal area. Sells raw photo chemicals for some of the
    best prices in North America. Also sells various pre-mixed things.


    Photo-co also I think in the Montreal area sells fresh 100' rolls of Agfa
    APX 100 for less then $30. Maybe $29? 100 feet is something like 18-20 rolls.

    You'll need to talk to Fotochem. Some place I've got a set of formulas
    that don't require battery acid.


    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Apr 15, 2004
    #2
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  3. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest

    Thanks, I'll keep this one as a reminder. If I survive the first 15
    rolls or so, I'll give them a call.
    Nah. The notion of hand loading film doesn't thrill me. I really get
    upset when I have scratches on my slides/negs so I don't want to add to
    the problem.
    Kodak have a single kit with 4 chems (n/i fixer) to do reversal. But
    reading the tech pub on this has got me wondering about managing all the
    chems and the liklihood that I will wipe out a few spieces of animals.

    Thanks for all the info, Nick!

    Cheers,
    Alan
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 15, 2004
    #3
  4. Alan Browne

    Andrew Price Guest

    On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 16:04:08 -0400, Alan Browne

    [---]
    Only one, as far as I can remember ...
     
    Andrew Price, Apr 15, 2004
    #4
  5. Alan Browne

    Mike Guest

    Being a guy who isn't into darkroom stuff, you would actually brew your
    own chemicals instead of buying pre-packaged HC-110 or D76?!?!
     
    Mike, Apr 15, 2004
    #5
  6. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest

    Brew? Mixing I have no problem with. My objection to darkroom is at
    the printing stage, not the film stage. Once the film is in the tank
    and the lights are on again and can take my time and do everything at a
    nice easy pace... and then worry about cutting the negs etc.

    The reversal processing looks pretty gnarly as well, so I might hold off
    on that...

    Cheers,
    Alan.
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 15, 2004
    #6
  7. Alan Browne

    Nick Zentena Guest


    Sure. Some things are no longer sold commerically. Some have never been
    sold commerically. Mixing your own means never having to deal with the sizes
    that the factory feels works for them. Mixing your own also tends to mean
    fresher chemicals.

    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Apr 15, 2004
    #7
  8. Alan Browne

    Nick Zentena Guest


    I think the idea that bulk loading leads to scratched film is over blown.
    If you can keep your camera clean enough to avoid scratches you can keep
    your bulk loader clean enough. But people should use what works for them.


    Is Kodak still selling the Kit? I thought they'd stopped.

    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Apr 15, 2004
    #8
  9. Alan,

    I've been using the Tetenal 3-bath for chromes. Works very well. Iv'e found that keeping a stable temp isnt that difficult at all. I
    jumped right pased B&W developing, but might give it a shot for kicks.
    I believe Tetenal has a C41 kit, and also 'Tabs' that are one shot mixes but pricey.
    The main problem I run into is that I dont shoot enough to use up the chemicals before they expire, which is 2 weeks.
    But its fun none-the-less.


    Cheers
     
    Martin Riddle, Apr 16, 2004
    #9
  10. Alan Browne

    Lewis Lang Guest

    Subject: This NG at its best (follow up to "Kodak B&W C-41 process?")
    Good deal, Alan. Happy shooting :).
     
    Lewis Lang, Apr 16, 2004
    #10
  11. Alan Browne

    Rico Tudor Guest

    You use a bulk loader? When growing up, I had to sit in a closet and
    wind film onto the spool by hand. Thank God for those Ilford cartridges!

    --------
     
    Rico Tudor, Apr 16, 2004
    #11
  12. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest

    It's still on their website (at least the tech sheet is).
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 16, 2004
    #12
  13. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest

    Thanks for the tips. That is another consideration. While I'd like to
    try the reversal process, I doubt that I would do more than a few rolls,
    so some chems are going to get dumped.

    BTW: what is the exposure latitude? Do we shoot like color slide, eg:
    placement of highlight details?

    Cheers,
    Alan
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 16, 2004
    #13
  14. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest


    It's that shooting word!
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 16, 2004
    #14
  15. Alan Browne

    Gordon Moat Guest

    I use to do home developing of E-6, though my mom never liked me taking
    over her kitchen. I used a candy thermometer zip tied onto the faucet, and
    had it running slowly to get the proper temperature. Actually was fun, and
    fairly easy. Of course, B/W is even easier.
    You could also get the Massive Developer Chart. There is even a version
    that goes on a PDA.
    Awesome, wish I had a deal like that.
    Sounds great, and the expiration should not be much of a big deal in using
    the film.
    Yuck! Sorry, but that is one of the all time films that I do not like. It
    is very similar to Ektachrome (Ektacrap!) 400X, which is like overly grainy
    colour TriX.
    Enjoy the journey. Let us know how the B/W reversal goes.
     
    Gordon Moat, Apr 16, 2004
    #15
  16. Alan Browne

    Gordon Moat Guest

    Still available, though not be mail order. Apparently, there are some
    issues about shipping the chemicals. Of course, you could always have
    DR5 do it for you. Another option is E-6 processing Kodak Portra 400BW
    (or whatever the new replacement is called). AGFA Scala is another
    direction, though more costly.
     
    Gordon Moat, Apr 16, 2004
    #16
  17. Alan Browne

    Nick Zentena Guest


    If you're talking E-6 then Agfa's kit is 4 rolls. Widely available in
    Canada. OTOH it's relatively expensive. The much bigger Kodak 5litre kit is
    maybe 5 times the price but will handle 10x the film [more or less]. The
    concentrates keep for awhile but the mixed solutions go off quicker. So you
    just make up what you need with the bigger kit.

    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Apr 16, 2004
    #17
  18. Alan Browne

    Nick Zentena Guest


    Not to mention Scala needs it's own special lab. The nice thing about
    mixing your own up is you only need to make up enough chemicals for the
    rolls being processed.

    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Apr 16, 2004
    #18
  19. Alan Browne

    Alan Browne Guest

    E-6 is just too cheap to get dev'd down the road and it comes all
    mounted. Bad shots I just tear out the slide and keep the reusable
    plastic frames...
    I'll look it up, thanks.
    I'll let you know how that turns out...
    It'll be my fool around film. There are some studio lighting combos I
    want to try, and I'm wheeling and dealing an old pak driven set of
    strobes...
    Like I said, perfect for shooting my friends doing volleyball. I did a
    few neat shots a couple weeks ago with the 20mm over the net post at the
    end of a monopod. (But my strobes were still setup at the back of one
    end of the court) I want to redo those with the strobes placed properly.
    http://www.aliasimages.com/images/Volleyball_2004_Mar31_Asco_9.jpg
    so the 400 at 640 and 1 push should do fine.

    which is certainly not as clean as (E200 @ 640 psh2 (yr suggestion))
    http://www.aliasimages.com/images/Volleyball_2004_Mar24_Asco1.jpg
    that's still in the "if" category.

    Cheers,
    Alan.

    Married men live longer than single men do,
    but married men are a lot more willing to die.
    --e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 16, 2004
    #19
  20. I've only developed chromes/slides/ie E-6, so I cant answer your question.

    But, I did shoot a roll of E-6 as a test strip, Basically the Macbeth color chart.
    I run a frame thru each time I develope to be sure the mix is good and is hasnt lost strength.
    I use this to determine if a push might be required for weak chems. Otherwise I have full control over pushes or pulls.( with e6 at
    least)

    Cheers
     
    Martin Riddle, Apr 16, 2004
    #20
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