Tiffen or Hoya

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Chino Cherokee, Jul 21, 2003.

  1. Disagree.
    Yor loss, Bubba, if you think that.
    Right. Not under tension, but loose.
    Michael Scarpitti, Jul 24, 2003
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  2. Chino Cherokee

    T P Guest

    It is a physical impossibility to manufacture metal-rimmed glass
    filters without a gap. There is **always** a gap, otherwise
    temperature changes would shatter the glass through differential
    expansion and contraction of the metal/glass.
    Some proprietary lens cleaning fluids leave a thin but very effective
    sticky residue which attracts more dust and dirt. The idea is that
    you then use *even more* lens cleaning fluid to clean off the dust and
    dirt, leaving behind **even more** sticky residue ...

    Household detergent is remarkably effective at removing that residue.
    It also costs a *tiny fraction* of the price of those lens cleaning
    fluids that tend to cause more problems than they solve.
    T P, Jul 24, 2003
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  3. Chino Cherokee

    T P Guest

    Coming from someone who shills for Pentax screw mount lenses on the
    basis of profound ignorance of the alternatives and an unjustifiable
    quasi-religious faith ... Damn cheek !!!!

    You are a rank hypocrite, Jeremy.

    (again, and again, ...)
    T P, Jul 24, 2003
  4. Chino Cherokee

    Bandicoot Guest

    One difference (not a better/worse thing, really) is in the two warm ups
    they offer. Nikon's A2 is a more amber colour than Pentaax's "Cloudy" which
    is a bit more corally. Both are nice, but just a bit different. I rather
    like the A2, but the Pentax "Cloudy" seems better for skin tones - to my eye
    at least.

    Bandicoot, Jul 28, 2003
  5. Chino Cherokee

    Bandicoot Guest

    One possible argument is consistency of colour rendition. Say you are
    shooting fashion on E6, needing accurate colour. You have tested the film
    and know that for your lenses, with a specific emulsion batch, processed by
    your lab, you need a specific adjustment to the filter pack suggested by
    your colour meter to get the film to give precise colour. Then you find you
    need to use a lot of fill flash because the weather has deteriorated, so you
    want to add a UV filter to deal with the flash. You use your colour meter
    and set the filter pack - knowing that you don't need to re-test for the
    'adjustment' to the metered pack because your UV filter has just the same
    colour balance as your lens.

    Not an unrealistic situation for a fashion or architectural interior
    photographer - totally irrelevant for 99.99% of everyone else.

    That said, I use Pentax lenses and (mostly) Pentax filters on them - but I
    use B+W on my Schneider lenses for 6x6, and Rodenstock/Heliopan on my Zeiss:
    did a few tests, decided I was happy with these, didn't want to waste time
    on any more testing...

    Bandicoot, Jul 28, 2003
  6. Chino Cherokee

    T P Guest


    I wasn't aware that food, product, automotive and industrial
    photographers made up only 0.01% of "Everyone Else".

    T P, Jul 28, 2003
  7. Chino Cherokee

    Bob Monaghan Guest

    unfortunately, there is more red-shift on most strobe flash tubes over
    their lifecycle than anything you are going to see in coloration effects
    from a UV filter, which by definition should have clear and minimal
    coloration in the visible light range (now a skylight or 1A or 1B filter
    is a different deal, admittedly).

    At one point I "matched" my older and newer higher power strobes by using
    various areas of CC05R filtering materials to warm them up (too blue
    anyway) and more or less match color temps ;-) But even here, not waiting
    for a strobe to fully charge (some take 10 more seconds after the dang
    "idiot" light comes on) can have more impact on color temp than any modest
    differences in UV filters over lenses etc.

    UV filters are not needed on modern lenses, as the UV cured glues used in
    their construction absorbs virtually all UV light anyway (see UV
    photography pages at http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/uv.html). So on most modern
    lenses, there is no reason to use a UV filter as a filter for its
    filtering effects, even at high altitude (again, films have changed from
    early days when there was a need etc.) (see medfmt.8k.com/bronfilters.html)
    This is why I prefer lens caps for protection, and filters for effects ;-)

    for colored filters, such as #81A or yellow #2 etc., there is so much
    variation between mfgers, and even between batches of new filters, much
    less for faded older filters (if not batch dyed glass..) etc., that it is
    a fun exercise to hold up a series of "identical" #81A filters from
    different mfgers on a light table, e.g., at a camera show, and see how
    much variation there is. Ditto red filters and so on. None of my half
    dozen or so yellow filters are even close to each other in color ;-) So
    using these colored filters swamps most issues of slight variations in
    light sources and so on.

    the final argument is that so many images are now being digitized and
    manipulated anyway, that shifting color balance is a minor detail. The
    real problem today is securing complete control over color balance from
    source to scanner to printer/output, so what you get is what you expect
    so the color image you had on the monitor matches the printer output

    grins bobm
    Bob Monaghan, Jul 28, 2003

  8. The best filters are loose. Glass under tension distorts somewaht.
    That's all I have to say.
    Michael Scarpitti, Jul 29, 2003
  9. Chino Cherokee

    Alan Browne Guest

    The photo mags are just filtering the reality...

    While recomended, I rejected 2 Hoya filters on delivery last year. Look
    at them on a light table with a loupe before accepting:

    From a posting I made in August last year:

    I ordered a couple filters (warming 81A and a 3 stop ND, 72mm). I
    specified B+W, but the store owner talked me into HOYA on delivery and

    He phoned a couple days later ... they're here...

    I go to the store and open the warming filter. There's the odd flake of
    dust. We brush that off ... hmmm. more ... won't come off. Look at
    it under a loupe. An air bubble in the glass. Rejected. The air
    bubble would have zero effect on an image unless there was some direct
    light hitting it... in any case, why should I accept a defective

    The ND filter didn't take more that 5 seconds to reject. It had a fuzzy
    line (darker than the rest of the filter) about 2 or 3 mm in width
    running one side of the filter to the other, right through the middle.

    So, I re-specified the B+W and they are on order.

    Alan Browne, Aug 1, 2003
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