Trees [images]

Discussion in 'Digital SLR' started by Me, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. Me

    Me Guest

    Some geotagged images of trees from my Panoramio site linked to Google
    earth.
    Mainly taken with Nikon dslrs (D70/D300), Nikkor 80-200 AF-D and Sigma
    10-20.
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/23057099 (Sunbeams - Hagley Park)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/12211095 (Sunbeams - Port Hills)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/31222035 (Bark Bay Lagoon - Manuka)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/9018625 (Autumn - Hagley Park)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/5765136 (Monochrome - Row of Macrocarpa)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/20493627 (Anticrepuscular Rays - same
    trees as above monochrome)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/5539386 (Flag Trees at top of Banks
    Peninsula - Ultrawide)
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/8794107 (Papatowai - Moonlit time exposure)
    Cheers / Me
     
    Me, Jan 19, 2010
    #1
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  2. Me

    Rich80105 Guest

    All wonderful photos - thanks for posting the link.
     
    Rich80105, Jan 19, 2010
    #2
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  3. Me

    Nighthawk Guest

    Sure got some lovely shots there. Inspires me to get out more myself
    with my D90 and 18-55, 55-200 (excellent cheap lenses). In recent
    times I have been concentrating more on wildlife, especially birds in
    flight. I use my 70-200 f/2.8 plus TC-17E teleconverter for that but
    find that birds get in between the AF sensors in the D90 (only 11).
    The D300 would be much better for that, with its 51 sensors. I love
    good landscapes and particularly like monochrome. Did you shoot in
    monochrome or convert in software?

    After years of manual cameras from various 35mm through medium format
    to 4x5 large format I find the D90 quite a steep learning curve. I
    don't always get what I expected. One thing I have done is to turn
    off auto white balance. I found that somewhat variable, and prefer to
    use my own judgement.
     
    Nighthawk, Jan 19, 2010
    #3
  4. Me

    Me Guest

    Thanks.
    The sun is directly behind me. There is a clear sky below a "Nor'west
    arch" of cloud (Föhn wind effect over the Southern Alps), shadows from
    the clouds forming the rays. It's a little surprising that
    anticrepuscular rays converge toward a point on the horizon.
    The day probably had similar conditions to when this was shot:
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/13849644
    with a dark angry sky and high winds at altitude, yet calm still
    conditions at ground level.
     
    Me, Jan 19, 2010
    #4
  5. Me

    Me Guest

    I always shoot raw, these days converting using CaptureNX, so white
    balance setting in camera isn't an issue (I leave it set on auto - it's
    not too bad at guessing in natural light)
    It's not easy to capture birds in flight - I have tried a few times, it
    seems that using AF-C with 9 points, and focus tracking with lock-on set
    to "off" (no delay) seems to work, so long as you can keep the central
    focus point on the target. That said, I've only had luck with easy
    targets - seagulls, or still birds with the occasional luck to be able
    to get close enough.
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/10868267
    http://www.panoramio.com/photo/9990415
     
    Me, Jan 19, 2010
    #5
  6. Me

    me Guest

    FWIW, I never use more than the 21 point dynamic focus. In fact I
    mainly use single point AF and mostly AF-S. To be honest I've never
    had good results with AF-C, Even setting the release priority set to
    focus. Started with a D70 (where one can't set release priority to
    focus), came to the same conclusion after moving to a D200 and again
    when I got a D300. The TC also slows down the focusing speed of the
    lens. I shoot the 70-200 f/2.8 VR with both the TC-14/20E.
    What shutter speed did you use to shoot the gull with. I really like
    this shot. FWIW, one of my better recent easrly mornings. I tend to
    use aperture priority with auto-iso to keep the shutter speed up while
    allowing my choose the aperture setting. I really wish Nikon would
    provide another firmware update for the D200 increasing the shutter
    speed setting range in auto-iso as they did with the ugrade for the
    D300.

    http://edwardgruf.com/2009-11-15_yorktown_am_birds/
     
    me, Jan 20, 2010
    #6
  7. Me

    Nighthawk Guest

    I had a mint condition Linhof Super Technika V, with 150mm f/4.5
    Voigtlander Apo-Lanthar (a blazingly sharp lens), 90mm f/8 Schneider
    Super Angulon, both Linhof branded lenses, with their focusing cams.
    I had its original lined box. There was also a 6x7 Super Rolex back,
    Polaroid back and the anatomical handgrip with cable release. I
    adapted a Mamiya viewfinder. There was also a condenser enlarging
    head for it. I used the roll film back most of the time.
     
    Nighthawk, Jan 20, 2010
    #7
  8. Me

    Nighthawk Guest

    I use AF-C with 3D tracking, drive on continuous high for birds. As
    long as I can keep any sensor on the target it will be in focus, but
    with only 11 sensors a smaller bird can get in between and the camera
    loses it altogether. I use the TC-17E II on the 70-200 f/2.8 VR
    nearly all the time but find that the AF speed is still lightning
    fast. The optical quality is superb. I also have a 55-200
    (incompatible with the TC) but the AF on that is far slower - good
    optics though. I guess there would be a slowdown with the TC-20E
    because of the loss of aperture.

    I must upload some of mine somewhere soon.

    I notice that some of your pics do not have any metadata (I always
    find interesting). I also see you use Gimp.

    I always shoot in JPEG fine. Most of the time I have the WB set to
    5560. As with when I was shooting slide film I am in the habit of
    creating the picture in the camera, though on a few occasions I will
    tweak the occasional shot, but the Nikon D90 has some good editing
    functions in-camera. I would use in-camera cropping mostly, which
    doesn't touch the pixels. I have a shot of a body-surfer, taken the
    the 70-200 + TC-17E, at 200mm (340mm) that I cropped down to
    1920x1280, 20% of the original file size (4288x2848) that gave a
    flawless sharp 12x8" print, every water drop in sharp focus. I am
    sure it will print twice the size without losing anything.
     
    Nighthawk, Jan 20, 2010
    #8
  9. Me

    Nighthawk Guest

    For best possible image quality use the sensor's natural ISO, which on
    the Nikon D90 and D300 is ISO 200. On the D90, which is newer than
    the D300, though they use the same sensor, there is a slight quirk,
    possibly due to the newer firmware, where ISO 800 gives better results
    than ISO 400. In fact there is very little difference between 200 and
    800. Recently I have been astounded at the sheer quality I have been
    getting at ISO 800. But long exposure at 200 would produce excellent
    results.
     
    Nighthawk, Jan 20, 2010
    #9
  10. Me

    me Guest

    The OP uses Gimp, not "ME". :)

    I use JAlbum with the ExhibitPlus plugin to create my on-line
    galleries. I usually don't keep the exif in the 1024 bys, but if the
    originals are linked to those, they contain the exif.
     
    me, Jan 20, 2010
    #10
  11. Me

    Me Guest

    It was 1/100 @ f5.6, 80mm using 80-200 AF-D.
    I was using 21 point AF-C, and spot metering.
     
    Me, Jan 20, 2010
    #11
  12. Me

    me Guest


    Thanks.
     
    me, Jan 20, 2010
    #12
  13. I like the idea of a flashgun with a really long narrow beam, say 10
    degrees spread, which is precisely aligned with the camera lens. Then
    you could do fill flash on birds on flight. It wouldn't have to be
    specially powerful, the beam focus would do the work.
     
    Chris Malcolm, Jan 21, 2010
    #13
  14. Me

    Peter Guest


    About the closest I've heard of , at anything approaching reasonable cost
    and weight, is the Better Beamer. Mine works fairly well.

    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/better_beamer.shtml
     
    Peter, Jan 21, 2010
    #14
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