TTL Fill flash favorites?

Discussion in 'Photography' started by D.R., May 5, 2004.

  1. D.R.

    D.R. Guest

    Hi all. :)

    Newbie armed with a Nikon F80+SB24, plenty of books and been doing
    much reading on the net....

    I have been reading up on a Fill Flash Cheat Sheet by Dan Richards that
    I downloaded from Popular Photography.
    http://www.popphoto.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=706
    http://www.popphoto.com/assets/download/821200311318.pdf

    If I understand correctly, a quick summary of a typical shot might be:

    * Stick camera on Manual exposure with center-weight metering
    * Meter the background, not the subject.
    * Over-expose background by +2/3ev.
    * Stick your flash on TTL auto, no bounce.
    * Set flash compensation to -1.333 ev
    * Take photo

    This is very different to just sticking a diffuser on or bouncing a flash and
    got me thinking.

    I was wondering what methods people on this NG use often when using
    a TTL flash in various situations?

    When experimenting, would I be best to go to a One Hour Photo lab to
    get my prints, seeing that they won't try to correct the exposure for me?
    My current lab, does a great pro service that corrects exposure and
    saturation, etc.

    Thanks in advance for your patience and tips. This NG is a God-send!
    D.R.
     
    D.R., May 5, 2004
    #1
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  2. D.R.

    ericm1600 Guest

    * Stick camera on Manual exposure with center-weight metering
    Depends on what effect you're trying to achieve. When I think of standard
    fill flash, I think of setting the exposure based on how I want it to look.
    Then, I'll add just enough fill flash so that I get details in the shadows.
    For slide film, that's often -1 1/3 stops from the main exposure. Mostly, I
    shoot negatives. I might use -2 stops for fill flash. On my wife's digi
    camera, I get better results at -2/3 stop.

    The basic premise of fill flash is to bring up the shadows just enough so
    that your film can record details in them. Your eyes can see larger
    variances in lighting than film or digital sensors can.

    If your subject is in the same light as your background, by overexposing the
    background, you'll end up with an overexposed subject. Just set the
    exposure normally for your subject. Then set your flash. If you have TTL,
    great. Set its exposure compensation anywhere from -1/2 to -2 stops. Try
    various settings and see which you prefer for given lighting conditions,
    specific subjects, and your film choice.
    Most labs will automatically correct prints for you. Same idea as your
    camera meter. Shoot whte, gray, and black walls. If you don't adjust the
    meter, chances are that everything will end up gray. Now, assume you have
    correctly exposed negatives for the white, gray, and black walls. Odds are
    good that an automatic printer will print a gray wall for you each time. If
    it matters to you, either print them yourself or switch to slides.
     
    ericm1600, May 9, 2004
    #2
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  3. D.R.

    D.R. Guest

    So, would you switch to manual exposure, and set
    the exposure for background/subject as if not using
    a flash, and then use flash -1/2 to -2 exposure
    compensation? If I stick my camera on auto, when I
    pop the flash on, the exposure settings change. I
    I guess that I first meter without the flash to get
    my settings, and then use TTL on the flash?
    My lab tends to slightly over-expose most photos.
    Each pic is manually adjusted, so I guess it's what
    the lab guy thinks looks best. I haven't used Slide
    film yet, as I haven't got the hang of correct
    exposure to an acceptable level. I should have a go
    just for a laugh.

    Thanks for the reply Eric!
     
    D.R., May 10, 2004
    #3
  4. D.R.

    ericm1600 Guest

    Yes. That sounds good.
     
    ericm1600, May 10, 2004
    #4
  5. D.R.

    D.R. Guest

    Thanks Eric!
     
    D.R., May 11, 2004
    #5
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