Using UV filters and lens hoods indoors

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Harold Silber, Jun 22, 2005.

  1. Hi
    I am taking photos at a large dinner / event on Saturday night in a large
    hall. I use a Canon 10D / 550 EX / 24-85 F3.5 USM / 50mm F1.8 / sigma
    18-125mm DC / 70-200 F4 CANON .
    Might be a stupid question ,, but do I need to keep the UV filters on or can
    I remove them in order to get a sharper image. Also do I need to use the
    lens hoods ?

    Awaiting your expert answers.

    Harold
    Johannesburg,
    South Africa
     
    Harold Silber, Jun 22, 2005
    #1
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  2. Harold Silber

    carrigman Guest

    I'm no "expert" but I'd keep the UV filter on purely in the interests of
    protecting the lens from smudges and the like. I'd wager that you would find
    it impossible to distinguish a photo taken with and without (assuming the
    filter is in good condition). The only time my UV filter comes off is when
    I'm fitting a polariser.

    I'd also use the lens hoods just to avoid stray light hitting the lens.

    Best of luck in the shoot.

    Carrigman
     
    carrigman, Jun 22, 2005
    #2
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  3. Thanks !!

     
    Harold Silber, Jun 22, 2005
    #3
  4. You don't need UV filters to begin with.
     
    Randall Ainsworth, Jun 23, 2005
    #4
  5. Harold Silber

    dadiOH Guest

    You don't need either, neither will hurt.

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    dadiOH, Jun 23, 2005
    #5
  6. Harold Silber

    RichA Guest

    UV filters do make a difference. Aside from the protection asset,
    they filter UV that digital cameras are capable recording. In
    particular, the use of halogen lamps for illumination in stores
    and other places results in an output of UV not seen with old
    incandescent light or fluorescents. Also, if you notice your
    image getting sharper when you remove the UV filter, get a new filter.
    Filters, in order not to effect the quality of the image need two
    characteristics;
    1. The need a good anti-reflection multicoating on both sides of the
    filter. The 4% reflection of light at both uncoated surfaces on a
    cheap filter can effect contrast, cause flaring, etc. With good
    multicoating, light loss is reduced to less than 0.5%.
    2. They need to be plane-parallel and well-polished. IF they lack
    this, they can effect the quality of images, especially from long
    lenses. Contrast and the optical correction of the lenses can be
    reduced. If you hold a cheap filter up to your eye and tilt it, you
    can often see the image shifting. This is a result of a lack of
    parallelism between the two glass surfaces, or there is some
    magnification being introduced because one or both surfaces have
    a curve ground into them. Mass-produced filters are not optically
    ground, they are plate-type glass that has been "fire" polished and
    often lack sufficient flatness and parallelism.

    Even with those good characteristics, filters can sometimes cause
    unwanted reflections owing to the interaction of particular lenses
    and the filter itself, coupled with the angle of light entering the
    lens. There are some filters (I've yet to see them) that are
    meniscuses, the filter is curved like a lens, but has no magnifying
    power. The idea of this is to reduce the chances of back an forth
    reflections from happening between the filter and lens elements.
    I think Nikon is experimenting with this and may even offer them.

    Good filters to buy are Hoya and B&W, fully multicoated.
     
    RichA, Jun 23, 2005
    #6
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