Volleyball Photography, a tutorial

Discussion in 'Digital SLR' started by Steve Cutchen, Jan 21, 2005.

  1. Steve Cutchen, Jan 21, 2005
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  2. Steve Cutchen

    Eddy Vortex Guest

    I didn't notice any mention of White Board settings at all. They're a pretty
    important factor in taking indoor shots in a gym. Eddy
    Eddy Vortex, Jan 21, 2005
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  3. Steve Cutchen

    Ryan Robbins Guest

    I find it interesting that you think using a flash distracts the players. In
    my experience shooting basketball, flash has not interfered with or even
    annoyed players, coaches, or officials. And the big guys use powerful
    strobes. You don't even notice them after awhile.
    Ryan Robbins, Jan 21, 2005
  4. Steve Cutchen

    Jay Beckman Guest

    But they aren't down low and right in their faces. They are way up in the
    rafters and buried in with the arena lights and aimed predominantly on the
    free throw lane.

    If a pro fired off an on camera flash while someone was driving to the
    basket or shooting free throws, they'd toss him/her out on their ear.
    Jay Beckman, Jan 21, 2005
  5. Steve Cutchen

    Basic Wedge Guest

    In my experience, flash photography is not permitted at any level of
    volleyball. The use of ceiling mounted strobes would not even be considered.
    If your equipment isn't adequate for shooting volleyball indoors, in
    whatever light condition exists, think instead of shooting "beach"
    volleyball outdoors.

    Basic Wedge, Jan 21, 2005
  6. True... but the target point and shoot cams really don't have more
    than a few fixed choices under white balance.
    Steve Cutchen, Jan 21, 2005
  7. ["Followup-To:" header set to rec.photo.digital.]

    Couple of points:
    - Megapixel:
    The difference between a 2 and 4 MP camera is ... just a 20%
    border round the image. It doesn't even double the size ---
    that would need a 8 MP camera (and 4 times the memory for
    the pictures!)
    Oh, a 1024x786 monitor is 0.8 MPs, a *huge* 1600x1200 monitor
    shows less than 2 MPs! A 1600x1200 (2MP) image printed will
    have photo quality (300dpi) @ 5x4", and good quality
    (200dpi) at 8x6". Compare to 4MP (8x6", 11x9") --- not
    that much difference.
    => Do not fret over MPs. Fret over optic quality, low light
    autofocus capability, low high-ISO noise and fast AF/fast
    shutter instead.

    - "Set [ISO] as high as your camera will let you."
    Some cameras give unusable images at high ISO values. So some
    testing should be done beforehand.

    - If your camera supports it, set the apperture to f/2.8 (or
    whatever the largest apperture is). Let the camera set the speed
    --- unless you drop below, say 1/80th, then you have to force
    the camera. So you need a camera that will allow you to override
    it on time and apperture --- not all point&shoot cameras do that!

    - I don't think you'll need much of a monopod, not at 1/80 or
    1/125, unless you have a 35mm equivalent of 80 or 120mm zoom.
    The problem is more the rapid movement of the players, where
    a monopod won't help. (neither will an image stabilizer ---
    it can dampen _your_ movements, not _players_ moving).

    - Use wide angle. Most cameras have no fixed apperture: what
    starts at f/2.8 is f/4.7 at the tele end, 1.3 stops higher.
    Were you to shoot at 1/80s at the tele end, you could do 1/200
    at the wide end --- or drop down one ISO step (if your camera
    is extra-noisy) and still use 1/100s. You might need to
    get closer to the field, but since most P&S cameras don't have
    a wide 'wide angle' (and even the DSLRs strain against
    the non-full-sensor sizes), this should be OK.

    - Additionally, "wide angle" reduces the impact of camera shake
    and can sometimes reduce the impact of player movements.

    - pre-squeeze basically lets the autofocus run (very slow)
    and does the light metering (extremely fast). Some cameras
    allow manual focussing, focussing with a pre-set range (fixed
    focus) or prefocussing by setting a distance, so the autofocus
    is deactivated. Doing this can help, if you can set the focus
    easily and exact enough.

    - some P&S cameras (and most DSLRs) can shoot series of images.
    If the series has 3 or more frames/second, you can get lucky and
    get that exceptional shot. But it eats memory (and battery ---
    always bring spare batteries and more memory) and you'll have
    to sort out many mediocre pictures. This can be a problem
    since it's less fun than shooting and wading through 500 pics
    to get the 20 really good ones is time consuming. But it _can_
    give you the one very special picture, if you are lucky.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Jan 24, 2005
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