What are your essential filters?

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Dave the Guy, Jun 8, 2005.

  1. Dave the Guy

    Dave the Guy Guest

    I have but one, but am willing to expand.

    Linear Polarizing Filter x 1

    Yes I'm a newbie who refuses to go automatic.

    But I'm willing to expand. Name some glass discs and squares you just
    can't live without, and in what situations you use them for.
    Dave the Guy, Jun 8, 2005
    1. Advertisements

  2. Dave the Guy

    Alan Browne Guest

    1) Correction filters

    Round: Circ Pol Skies, water, punch up foliage
    81A/B warming filter Open shade portraits
    2 stop ND Decrease DOF in bright situations or to
    "Reduce" studio flash power below range.

    Square: ND Grad (2 stop) Morning/Evening landscapes

    2) Protection filters:
    114mm 'clear' on 300 f/2.8 -always on
    72mm 'UV' on 20mm f/2.8 -remove to shoot unless sand/dust/mist/etc.
    72mm 'UV' on 28-70 f/2.8 -remove to shoot unless sand/dust/mist/etc.
    72mm 'UV' on 80-200 f/2.8 -remove to shoot unless sand/dust/mist/etc.

    Also remove these filters if adding an 'effect' filter.

    No filters on 50mm f/1.7 or 100mm f/2.8 macro (unless for effect or
    protection in nasty environments.

    Wish list: SOFTAR 1

    Alan Browne, Jun 8, 2005
    1. Advertisements

  3. Dave the Guy

    Tony Guest

    Actually none, but when I shot mostly B/W I carried Red, light blue, dark
    blue, yellow, orange, and even a green although it did little in most
    shooting situations. I've never considered a pol all that essential to the
    way I shoot but usually have had one with me.
    Tony, Jun 8, 2005
  4. Dave the Guy

    McLeod Guest

    The Cokin Sunsoft filter. Changes the entire feel of a outdoor
    portrait especially on overcast days or in open shade or other
    conditions that create a high colour temperature.
    McLeod, Jun 8, 2005
  5. Dave the Guy

    Peter Chant Guest

    What do the blue filters do. I know they make blues lighter and reds

    I find red a bit too much myself, it darkens greens far too much except the
    couple of times I used SFX.

    Peter Chant, Jun 9, 2005
  6. Dave the Guy

    Tony Polson Guest

    Linear Polarizing Filter x 1 (like you)

    ND grads 2 stop and 4 stop

    Zeiss Softars 1 and 2

    That's it for those I cannot live without.
    Tony Polson, Jun 9, 2005
  7. Polarizer -- check. I actually don't remember to use mine many times
    when I should; sloppy.

    Hoya R72 infrared filter -- for digital, sorry guys.

    Red and Yellow and Orange filters for B&W film -- to adjust image
    tone. The orange and even the red can be used on skin tones, too; not
    realistic but often nice (still in B&W).

    Graduated neutral density -- only way to bring the sky down to match
    the land. Doesn't work if the horizon isn't straight, either.
    David Dyer-Bennet, Jun 9, 2005
  8. Dave the Guy

    Chadwick Guest

    ND grad
    Circular polariser
    Warm up

    All Cokin, all for general landscape use. I forget what the exact
    strength/name of the ND and warm up are; I've had them for years and
    they Just Work (TM). I lost my screw-in polariser recently, so I'm
    stuck with my Cokin backup for the time being.
    I also take a starburst if I'm going near water (sometimes it's worth
    it, sometimes not) and a blue filter to correct indoor colour casts.
    Chadwick, Jun 9, 2005
  9. Dave the Guy

    Dave the Guy Guest

    I see that noone really *needs* a soft effect or diffusion filter,
    especially now that a photo can be digitized and worked in photoshop or
    an equivalent program for certain effects or to change hues.

    What kind of made me think of this topic was the fact now that you can
    upload your photos online and order prints - up to poster sizes - yet
    the printer (let's say ofoto.com / kodak) insists on "enhancing"
    colors, making things sharper or softer or whatnot, etc. I noticed
    that a set of my prints that came back from a generic shop had this
    gross digital sort of color distortion upon close inspection.

    So in the end, if one doesn't personally print the photos...a lot of
    those filter effects seem to diminish due to printer preferences.

    This frustrates me as a beginner and a hobbyist.
    Dave the Guy, Jun 9, 2005
  10. Dave the Guy

    Alan Browne Guest

    Not so. I stated a desire for a Softar. There is a used one available
    locally, but even used, the price is quite high. I'd rather have the
    Softar effect during capture than post processing, and I still shoot
    portraits and other material on film.
    Where I do my online ordering/printing, I specify NO CHANGES TO THE
    IMAGE, and they comply. Local store.
    As a beginner and hobbyist you should consider these obstacles as part
    of the learning and rites... the idea of a hobby is not to be the best
    from your first attempt, but to grow into it as part of learning and
    enjoying the hobby.

    Alan Browne, Jun 9, 2005
  11. i have a b+w uv on every lens, to protect the front element from dust,
    scratches and so on.
    plus a 77mm b+w circular pola and a series of 77mm b+w coloured
    filters for black and white photography (mid yellow, orange, red,
    green and blue).
    a nd4 filter comes useful when shooting in bright light to be able to
    use very long shutter times --for example, to do some panning-- or to
    open the diaphragm to reduce dof.

    Gianni Rondinini, Jun 9, 2005
  12. Dave the Guy

    Gordon Moat Guest

    82A - very light blue, but often just enough for the lighting conditions

    ND - I have several of these. Mostly used for daytime shooting when I
    want to shoot wide open aperture, or when I want to greatly slow down the
    shutter speed for panned shots.

    I probably have four dozen filters, though they don't get used as often
    as the ones I mentioned above. It is nice to have a selection when I go
    on location, especially since I use transparency film. I have several
    duplicates, sometimes different sizes. I don't suggest amateurs try to
    acquire many filters, since the cost can be quite high.
    Gordon Moat, Jun 9, 2005
  13. Dave the Guy

    Peter Chant Guest

    Take slides?
    Peter Chant, Jun 10, 2005
  14. Dave the Guy

    Alan Browne Guest

    Good one... narrower latitude of frustrations ... ;-)
    Alan Browne, Jun 10, 2005
  15. Dave the Guy

    Bandicoot Guest

    There's a lot I use at different times, but the ones I wouldn't be without
    are ND grad.s first, and polarisers second. Third place goes to warm-ups,
    and fourth to a UV for use on the coast and in mountains (and anywhere
    dusty). That's for colour, for B&W the coloured contrast filters go without
    saying: Orange, Yellow, Green, and Red - in that order.

    I quite like a starburst for the occasional night scene, and colour
    correction filters for odd light and for long exposures are necessities for
    some pictures. A mild magenta (about a CC15) can be useful for night shots
    too. Occasionally a soft-focus is useful, and the Softars are my
    favourites - but a soft-focus lens is better. But all these are much less
    frequently used than the others.

    I have quite a lot of Lee grad.s in some of the subtler colours (corals,
    straws, a straw stripe, the mildest 'sunset', etc.) but they really only
    come out if I have to take a shot at a certain time and place and the light
    just isn't what I want it to be. I don't really use any of them when I have
    a choice.

    Bandicoot, Jun 10, 2005
  16. Dave the Guy

    Bandicoot Guest

    That's one I use less often - what sort of light makes you want to turn to
    it, Gordon? Just curious (you don't live somewhere really foggy, do you
    ;-) )

    Bandicoot, Jun 10, 2005
  17. Dave the Guy

    ian lincoln Guest

    That reminds me. how do you mimick a starburst filter in photoshop?
    ian lincoln, Jun 11, 2005
  18. Dave the Guy

    Gordon Moat Guest

    It actually works well when the sun is going down. I also use it for
    nightclub shots, or some indoors photography, sometimes even with flash. The
    results on white areas (if any at all) can appear brighter on the final
    print. This bias comes from my commercial printing background, in that a
    slight light bluish tone can make things appear brighter in the final printed
    piece. The idea comes from the fact that the whiteness and brightness values
    of paper are often around 94% to a best of 98%. That probably seems weird?
    Anyway, if you believe it, then you have found out one of my photography

    Well, we just had one of those news weather quiz surveys on the other day. As
    it turns out, San Diego has marine layer (fog . . . sort of) about 102 days a
    year. People are often overly optimistic about the weather here, so the
    perception is that it is nearly always sunny and "perfect".
    Gordon Moat, Jun 11, 2005
  19. Dave the Guy

    Tony Polson Guest

    it is the same "secret" used by manufacturers of (laundry) washing
    powder over many decades. Addition of a small quantity of fluorescent
    blue dye makes clothes look "whiter than white".

    Before it was added to washing powder, I understand it was available
    in small sachets to be added to laundry during washing.
    Tony Polson, Jun 12, 2005
  20. Dave the Guy

    Gordon Moat Guest

    Maybe I should borrow or paraphrase a detergent advert for my photography
    business? ;-)
    Gordon Moat, Jun 12, 2005
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.