Yashica Electro 35 shutter button

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005.

  1. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    Anyone else got one of these cameras?

    How should the shutter button behave after taking a shot. Mine seems to pop
    up after a slight hesitation with a loud clunk.

    Is this normal?

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005
    #1
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  2. I don't have one but I sold a few hundred of them, back when. The feel
    of the shutter release when returning is a little odd, even when
    operating correctly. When first coming up, the spring tension is rather
    robust. Then about mid-way, it encounters a little "resistance", where
    it seems there's little spring to it. Then the final bit of return is
    stonger.

    Most likely yours is just a little gummed up with debris or dried
    lubricant. Entirely expectedgiven the age.
     
    Scott Schuckert, Mar 7, 2005
    #2
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  3. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    I am a bit concerned that it was the 'pad of death' from the Yashica Guy
    web-site. It looks like a complete sod to replace and I am not sure how
    may cameras I would trash before I managed a successful repair!

    This camera seems to be improving with use. Just a thought, if it is a
    lubricant problem would running a tiny amount if v fine oil down the edge
    of the button do any good? I suspect more likely to do harm than good.


    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005
    #3
  4. Peter Chant

    Gordon Moat Guest

    No, not normal. It should just release. Recall that for longer exposures, you
    need to hold down the shutter button to allow the electronics to control the
    shutter. My guess is that something is not aligned, or you have some foam
    debris making the button stick.
     
    Gordon Moat, Mar 7, 2005
    #4
  5. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    Sorry, I can't recall, I only got the camera Saturday! So are you saying
    that if the electronics decide a 10 second exposure is in order I have to
    keep my finger on the button for at least 10 seconds, or use a locking
    cable release?

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005
    #5
  6. Peter Chant

    Gordon Moat Guest

    Exactly!. Also, one thing that I disagree with Mark Hama about is that pad
    replacement. I removed that from one of my Yashica GT cameras, and it works
    fine. Removing that it much easier than replacing it. The difference is that
    now that one springs the shutter button back with a little more force.
     
    Gordon Moat, Mar 7, 2005
    #6
  7. Peter Chant

    Gordon Moat Guest

    I almost forgot, if you want to try some repair, this site has some nice
    images:

    <http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/electro/page_01.htm>

    I did not think the Yashica GT was too bad a tear down, and much can be done
    with a partial teardown. Cleaning and lubrication are much easier with only a
    little more access to parts areas. The images on that web site show a Yashica
    that is fairly close to the construction of the other models.
     
    Gordon Moat, Mar 7, 2005
    #7
  8. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    I am wondering, perhaps the shutter release / pad may be OK, a little use
    may sort things.

    So from what you are saying, if the pad is really playing up just take the
    top off and extract it and leave it in that condition.

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005
    #8
  9. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    Good site. It is a pity that the tiny annotation is only on the
    'thumbnails' only.

    Well, I took a part some binos to remove paint chips and found it was better
    left alone. Similar for a projector lens. I'm not so confident therefore
    on the camera side. That said, I must have fixed lots of other stuff.

    I think peeling back the coating is what is putting me off. I can't even see
    the offending pad on the good pictures on that site.]

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005
    #9
  10. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    Slight change in topic, how do you find the camera? I'm part way through a
    test film. I bought it as it was a cheap way to see what the fuss is about
    with range-finders. I don't think I am a range finder convert as I find
    the focussing a little fiddly. I would have thought the double image from
    the rangefinder would have been larger. However, it seems a plesent and
    unfussy bit of kit to use, which I think I will hang on to.

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 7, 2005
    #10
  11. Peter Chant

    Bandicoot Guest

    On my Electro 35 CC the button itself comes up again quietly, but it is just
    a plunger pushing on something below it - and that something resets itself
    with a thud as I start to wind on to the next shot. I've got into the habit
    of keeping my finger lightly on the button as I make the first slight
    movement of the winding lever, and then letting it up a little more gently.
    Otherwise I have a camera with a near silent shutter, and a gunshot wind-on!


    Peter
     
    Bandicoot, Mar 8, 2005
    #11
  12. Peter Chant

    Gordon Moat Guest

    Easy enough to try that out. If you don't have film in the camera, then just
    keep winding on and tripping the shutter.
    It worked for me on one Yashica GT, though the other one was left alone. This
    is an area that I think is slightly different on some of the Electro models.
    Basically, you can just get at it to remove damaged foam of the pad, but
    replacing it requires more disassembly. As far as I know, all it does is
    slightly quiet the camera.
     
    Gordon Moat, Mar 8, 2005
    #12
  13. Peter Chant

    Gordon Moat Guest

    I never peeled back that leatherette on either of my Yashica GTs. I think quite
    a bit of cleaning can be done without going that far in teardown.
     
    Gordon Moat, Mar 8, 2005
    #13
  14. Peter Chant

    Gordon Moat Guest

    Good enough to get two of them. These really are great low light cameras, and
    the shutter will time itself to at least 30 seconds. Probably one of the best
    low light set-ups since the Nikon FE.
    I think they are a good way to test out a rangefinder, though far from the
    best way to do so. Considering the low cost, there are few other choices.
    The rangefinder is not very weather proof, so likely not very bright in an old
    camera. I cleaned both of my rangefinder/viewfinder assemblies on both GT
    bodies. The improvement made a huge difference. Care needs to be taken to
    clean all the optics, without scratching or damaging anything; not impossible,
    but could be slow. I also did an internal modification to both of my GT
    bodies, and the rangefinder brightness and contrast are nearly at Leica
    levels.

    The uncleaned old set-up will lack contrast, making focus more difficult. If
    the cleaning goes well, you should be able to focus in a dark room with just
    candle light. If the lens barrel is sticking, that can also make focus
    tougher, though that area is much tougher to clean.

    Overall, I am disappointed with a few things. The focus grip area on the lens
    is too small, and forces your fingers to only two specific points. The film
    pressure plate and transport mechanism have a tendency to allow the film to
    get a bit loose. The film rewind does not move that smoothly, and needs to be
    held onto, or it springs back. The film winder has a strange feel to it.

    Things Yashica got right. The lens is fantastic, almost to the point that I
    would be willing to take it off the camera, and transplant it on a better
    rangefinder body. The light meter, once adjusted, works very well under nearly
    any lighting condition. This is a tank of a camera, and can take lots of
    beating, and still work.

    A better view of the abilities of this lens comes from a job I did using a
    Yashica GT (and other gear). Go to:

    <http://www.bigtimeoperator.com> click on "GALLERY", then choose "Black &
    White"

    About a third of the shots in the B/W gallery are from the Yashica GT. The
    only downside to using that camera as a stage camera is that it is too quiet .
    .. . strange but true. I could not hear the shutter, so it made me nervous
    about whether or not it actually worked. I only shot one 36 exposure roll with
    the GT, and it was a bit unplanned, since that GT was actually a fourth backup
    to my other gear.
     
    Gordon Moat, Mar 8, 2005
    #14
  15. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    Hmm. My wind on is near silent. Assuming they are similar cameras then
    either something is very good or very bad with mine...

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 8, 2005
    #15
  16. Don't do that. Trust me.
     
    Scott Schuckert, Mar 8, 2005
    #16
  17. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest


    It's OK, I was running it past the NG first.

    Are you speaking as the voice of experience! :)

    Actually, when people get cameras CLA'ed what is used as the 'L'?
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 8, 2005
    #17
  18. Sadly, yes - and I should have known better.
    OK, I guess I should admit I used to run a small chain of camera
    stores, some 20 years ago. I had a service department, too, though
    most items were sent out.

    The key part of CLA is the cleaning. As many people have found out,
    relubricating a part that already has crud in it rarely helps, and if
    it does, it's only because the new lube washes the dirt out. Then, of
    course, it winds up somewhere else.

    The actual lubricants vary, but as I recall most were formulated
    specifically for cameras; and in some cases for a particular camera.

    There was a white lithium grease used for wind gears, and a thicker
    yellow grease they used mostly in motor drives. Then a couple of finer
    lubes that I believe were silicone based. But in all cases the key
    feature was that they not get runny at reasonably elevated
    temperatures. I saw a lot of real messes where people had tried to
    lubricate their own cameras with vaseline.
     
    Scott Schuckert, Mar 8, 2005
    #18
  19. Peter Chant

    Bandicoot Guest

    Well, the wind-on itself _is_ near silent, it's just that it is only after
    the first slight movement of the winding lever that the shutter button
    "resets" itself - which it does with such a thump. Now I'm used to it it
    really isn't a problem, as my winding technique with that camera prevents it
    happening.


    Peter
     
    Bandicoot, Mar 8, 2005
    #19
  20. Peter Chant

    Peter Chant Guest

    Scott Schuckert wrote:

    Hmm, for no reason I can see I was sold some lithium grease for my bicycle
    bottom bracket bearing. I wonder if the silicon based lubricants are the
    same as the dry lubricants I have used on some other kit where I did not
    want grease.

    Pete
     
    Peter Chant, Mar 8, 2005
    #20
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