Zone VI Archival Print Washer Parts

Discussion in 'Darkroom Developing and Printing' started by Jeff Neale, Apr 11, 2004.

  1. Jeff Neale

    Jeff Neale Guest

    Greetings All
    I Found a used Zone VI Washer 11x14 at a local camera store. In
    pretty good shape at a good price. Seems to work fine but what's the
    purpose of the two spare acrylic sheets that came with it ?? They're
    about 17" X 4 1/2" but don't seem to fit anywhere in the washer unless
    I remove some print dividers.
    Any brilliant ideas ?? Thanks All..Jef
    Jeff Neale, Apr 11, 2004
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  2. IIRC, they were so you could remove all the dividers, and you put those
    things in. Then you could put one of their negative washer baskets in
    there with the sheet film in the basket for washing sheet film. I never
    bought the basket or thought of washing negatives in there. For paper,
    the slow water flow rate is appropriate, but I prefer a much faster
    water flow rate for washing negatives. IIRC, Kodak recommend 6 changes
    an hour, but I may be mistaken. I generally wash the negatives in the
    developping tank and have about one change per minute for 10 minutes. I
    fill the tank with the negatives in there, jiggle the reels a little and
    dump it. Then I let it refill and wash 5 minutes. Then I dump it, let it
    refill, and wash another 5 minutes. This after one minute in KHCA, or
    Jean-David Beyer, Apr 11, 2004
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  3. Jeff Neale

    Alexis Neel Guest

    I'm pretty sure one is used to lay on top of the vertical pieces when
    it is full of prints and washing. The print edges have a tendency to
    rise a little bit out of the water, and thats what it is used "hold them down".
    At least I have 2 similar things for my 16x20 and 20x24 ZoneVI

    Alexis Neel, Apr 12, 2004
  4. Jeff Neale

    doug Guest

    I have the same print washer. Yes the short sheets are intended to support
    the sheet film washer (submerged) or for stacking roll film reels. To use
    them you remove as many standard dividers as is necessary. The Zone VI
    catalog says:
    "With dividers removed, any of our print washers can be used for archival
    washing of film on reels".
    I usually stack reels, up to (3) deep, on the inserted short sheets. About
    15-18 reels can be accommodated this way. I've used it since'82 and it works

    doug, Apr 12, 2004
  5. No. It is true that such a thing is supplied with new washers, but I
    believe the O.P. is talking about the thing you get a pair of with each
    washer. I do not believe I have ever unwrapped them.
    Jean-David Beyer, Apr 12, 2004
  6. Jeff Neale

    John Guest

    Don't these replace a pair of dividers so that you can drape a
    16X20 across multiple slots ?


    John S. Douglas, Photographer -
    Please remove the "_" when replying via email
    John, Apr 12, 2004
  7. Jeff Neale

    Jeff Neale Guest

    Thanx all for help & suggestions..Jef
    Jeff Neale, Apr 16, 2004
  8. Jeff Neale

    victoriacoo Guest

    Does anyone know how to control the overflow? When the water reaches the top it pours over onto the floor. I hope someone wil reply.
    victoriacoo, Nov 20, 2013
  9. I have a large Zone VI washer although I haven't used it
    for a while. I always put mine in the bathtub. The only way
    I found to prevent overflow is to adjust the filling rate to
    it doesn't. In fact, from experiments I made long ago with
    dye to determine the time it took the water to change I
    mostly ran it to deliberately overflow. These washers work
    OK but are not wonderful. For single prints I mostly use a
    tray with a Kodak Print Siphon in it. This works quite well
    for single prints or perhaps a tray with a number of small
    prints that can move around freely, but is not so good for a
    stack of larger prints. There is probably an ideal print
    washer but I've never seen one.
    Richard Knoppow, Nov 30, 2013
  10. I have a Zone VI print washer, 11"x14" size (i.e., it will wash prints
    that size or a little larger, but not 16"x20".

    The way I run it, tempered water flows in the hose connection at my
    upper right into a plenum chamber. While in there, some of the dissolved
    air comes out of solution. I wish it all did.

    From the plenum, the water enters the main chamber through to rows of
    small holes; one row near the top (but below the water level) and
    another row near the bottom. After the water has washed the prints, it
    exits the washing chamber through holes at the bottom into the exit
    plenum. Picker did that because he believed hypo is heavier than water
    and it would sink to the bottom. That happens to be nonsense, but it
    does not really matter. The water rises up in the exit plenum and goes
    out the overflow pipe.

    _There is no reason whatever for the washer to overflow_. The exit pipe
    is about one inch in diameter and the intake pipe is effectively about
    3/8 inch. There is little point running much over 1/2 gallon per minute
    through that, since washing is a diffusion limited process. But even if
    you run a gallon a minute, it should never overflow.

    What flow rate could you be running that the water comes into the tank
    faster than can escape from the large drain pipe? I have never had it
    come anywhere near the top.

    The biggest problem I have with the washer is that not all the air comes
    out of the water in wintertime in the entry plenum chamber, so some of
    it comes out on the prints. I wrote to Fred Picker about that and he
    said it was not a problem because the bubbles grow in size and float off
    the prints and they do not impede washing. Well, I have studied them and
    they can remain firmly in place for over 15 minutes, and they do impede
    washing. So every 5 or 10 minutes I quickly raise each print and briskly
    reinsert it to get the bubbles off. They are caused by mixing the cold
    winter water with the hot water to get wash water the right temperature.
    I tend to do my B&W processing at 75F because I cannot reliably get it
    colder than that in the summertime, and I prefer to use the same
    temperatures all year long.
    Jean-David Beyer, Nov 30, 2013
  11. Mine is the 16x20 washer. Very heavy. I tested it using
    beet juice to see how long it took for the red color to
    clear. At normal flow rates, that is, no overflow, it took
    too long so when I was using it regularly I put in the
    bathtub and let it overflow.
    Richard Knoppow, Dec 1, 2013
  12. I did not have beet juice, so I used a few drops of a potassium
    permanganate solution. (You do want to wash that out after testing.)

    At 1/2 gallon per minute for my smaller size washer, it does take quite
    a while to clear the tank. But at some point you are wasting water. My
    temperature regulating valve (Lawler) does not regulate below about 1/2
    gallon per minute, and for my tank it will clear in less than an hour. I
    would guess the 16x20 model would require 1 to 2 gallons per minute. But
    I would be surprised that the overflow pipe on the washer would not keep
    up with that. A friend who used to be a professional (wedding)
    photographer had the 16x20 size and his did not overflow. Edna Bullock
    (Wynn's wife) used his East Street washer and that worked for her. I do
    not think it overflowed, but that was over 30 years ago and I do not
    remember how it worked.

    When I am processing photo prints, I rinse the prints for 5 minutes
    after the second fixer, run them through a 2% sodium sulfite bath for a
    minute or so, and into a washing sink that has water running through it
    (holding). I then tone the prints in selenium toner. Then hypo clear
    again and wash. So by the time they are go into the print washer, a lot
    of the hypo and silver thiosulfate complexes have already been removed.

    That hypo test reveals they are washed enough after an hour or so in the
    print washer.
    Jean-David Beyer, Dec 1, 2013
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